Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Pussycat, pussycat, where have you been?

London, baby!
Home of Harry Potter and Queen! Not the Queen, (though yes, the Queen too…) but I mean, rock-your-socks-off-Freddy-Mercury-Queen...


Day One – London
We arrive in London really early in the morning, so we aren’t able to check-into our room till later in the day. Our first stop is Millennium Gloucester Hotel, to drop off a bag for my brother. Now that he’s on the A380 fleet, he probably flies to Sydney and London more often than anyone else I know. He was supposed to arrive in London the same day as us, but unfortunately his roster was changed, and he had a flight just before, and just after us.

So I leave him a bag of stuff to bring home for me, and he leaves me a bag of goodies with our ‘hotel’ reception, filled with stuff from home like ‘beh teh so’ (heong pneah), mooncakes, instant chrysanthemum tea, etc. I also asked him to pack in 2 cans of ‘Jia Jia liang teh’ for Ben, but he thought he was being kind enough to bring us 5 cans!

We have to drink all of them as quickly as possible cos it’s the start of our trip and already the weight of our haversacks are killing us.

Luckily our ‘hotel’ allows us to stow our bags at the reception before check-in time. So, although tired from a restless and uncomfortable 7-hour flight over, we head out to visit Buckingham Palace. The State Rooms are open for public viewing each summer, when the Queen is holidaying in Scotland. So we can’t really say we’ve been to London to visit the Queen.


We're amazed by the beauty and grandeur of the palace interiors. Absolutely breathtaking! Photography isn’t allowed in the palace, so, sorry, no pictures of the exquisite details of the famous paintings, porcelain and decor. For the first time ever and only this summer, a special tour is also held called ‘A State Banquet’. This features the setting of a state banquet in the ballroom when heads of state visit and dine with the Queen. Not very interesting though.

We weren’t expecting the weather to be too cold, but it is cold, and windy, and we’re shivering our underpants off as we walk through parts of the lovely gardens at the end of the tour.


It’s not yet noon and we’re starving. Our booking for lunch at Le Caprice is only at 2.30pm, so we walk about looking for a light snack. On the way, we pass this grand-looking but very odd ‘church’.

It says, "Cleanse the leper. Heal the sick. Raise the dead."

We decided on lunch at Le Caprice, a very popular restaurant in London, because it was recommended by an acquaintance of Ben’s.

Tired and hungry, I suggest we try to get an earlier seating as I read that they sometimes take in walk-in guests who can enjoy their meal at the bar. So we walk to the restaurant which is situated just behind The Ritz, and are greeted by the friendly managers who are already expecting Ben, the chef from the Burj Al Arab.

Immediately, they give us a place at the bar even though we’re two hours early, and welcome us with two complimentary glasses of champagne. Not a good idea to drink champagne when you’re this tired and hungry though. Really not a good idea.

Ben orders one of the daily specials for his starter, a fillet of mullet, which is filled with bones, lots of bones! He keeps asking me for tissues to spit blobs of half-chewed fish and bones into. Very disappointing. Luckily, he suggests that I order the Tortellini with sweetcorn & girolles since I like mushrooms, and I love it! So does he. It is really, really good. The flavour, the texture, just bloody good.

Then Ben notices that one of the guys seated next to us has ordered Eggs Benedict which looks really appetizing, and looks around to realise that almost every table has ordered it too. So he orders one, and it more than makes up for his first starter. The egg poached to perfection, the muffin toasted to a lightly crisp piece of heaven. Just DELISH!!

While seated at the bar, we are hugely entertained by watching a bartender with hands more skilled than David Beckham’s feet. He works so fast, we keep having to make double takes. Like first he’s brewing a cappuccino, then taking down a new order while clearing soiled cups and glasses and preparing a pot of tea and next thing we know, there’s already cocoa sprinkled on that darn cup of coffee. I almost suspect he has a wand hidden somewhere while he secretly utters magical incantations. Expecto cappuccino!

He prepares little pots of fresh peppermint tea so often that I decide to try some after our meal too. It’s refreshing and especially soothing since I have a bad headache from a very bad combination of lousy flight + lack of sleep + sightseeing overkill + champagne on an empty stomach.


After lunch, we make a super-quick stop at Oxford Street so Ben can see what the fuss is all about at this famous shopping area. Like an upsized, open-air Mega Mall, with huge-ass versions of H&M, Topshop and the biggest Apple Store ever!

Finally, we head back to our ‘hotel’. Inverted-coma-ed because we’ve never experienced a hotel stay like this before. Grandly named the ROYAL Norfolk Hotel, I chose it because of its very strategic location and the pictures of the room looked ok on the internet. I was also very happy that the manager allowed Andrew to leave a bag at the reception for us for 3 days.

So, as I was saying, I selected this place because it’s so close to Paddington station, which is where we’ll depart the next day for Maidenhead. It’s so close, you can even ‘experience’ the train every ten minutes. The railway tracks are just below, as pictured here. I don’t even have to zoom in on it, this is the exact view from our room on the 3rd floor.


The en-suite bathroom is so small, you get blue-blacked elbows just trying to brush your teeth. But at least, the room is clean, the bed is comfy, and no ghostly encounters or worst, cockroaches! We manage an uneasy afternoon nap with the persistent drone of construction works going on downstairs plus the frequent rattle and clatter of passing trains.


And of course, I no longer need to tell you all about our dinner at Ramsay’s that night. Except that we think we may be the only ‘regular Joes’ who’ve taken the tube and walked 15 minutes to one of the best restaurants in the world.

Complimentary breakfast the next morning is made up of soggy toast, very salty bacon, eggs and the smallest but toughest wieners in the world. ;p But it’s hearty and enough to fuel us on our onward journey.


Day Two – Maidenhead
After breakfast and checking out, we visit Harrod’s to look for the cheese that Ben enjoyed so much the night before. We’re not allowed to walk around Harrod’s carrying our two haversacks and large bag of goodies (plus a very heavy copy of Gordon Ramsay’s latest book, 3-star Chef). So we have to check it in at their Left Luggage Room, reluctantly parting with £9 - 3 pounds for each bag!


Harrod’s is so huge, it’s a good thing we only have time to browse the Food Halls cos we’re already lost on the first floor and can’t even find an exit. Like the Takashimaya basement multiplied by six, it’s food, food, food everywhere. Looks nice in pictures, but not that intriguing lah. And they don’t carry the elusive Plaisir au Chablis. Too bad.


We take the First Great Western to Maidenhead, and check into Ray Corner Guesthouse. The owners of the guesthouse, Sue & Graham, are very friendly. They’re very excited to hear that Ben’s a chef, and tell us about what they know about The Fat Duck, peppered with a bit of local gossip here and there.


The room is clean and very well maintained. Again, we have a window overlooking the main road outside. Most small hotels and guesthouses here do not have air-conditioning because it’s cold most of the time, and even their summers aren’t that warm. So we have to leave the windows open for some form of ventilation, which means being disturbed by the sound of passing cars, buses, people, dogs…

Before this trip, I read a lot about the Thames Path that stretches 180 miles along the River Thames, passing interesting places like Windsor, and small towns like Maidenhead and Bray. The guesthouse is within walking distance from this path, and I had planned to walk to the nearby village of Cookham to admire the ‘countryside’ and scenes of farms, cottages, etc.


This afternoon, I suggest we walk to Boulter’s Lock, and maybe visit Ray Mill Island there, which I read is a lovely nature spot with wild ducks and guinea pigs. Again, I guess I’ve been fooled by pictures on the net, cos nothing seems remotely ‘countryside’ about the views along this part of the Thames. Perhaps it may be so closer to Cookham, but we don’t have the energy to find out. We stop at a small café for coffee and Fish n Chips.

Again, I’ve already described dinner at The Fat Duck, plus lunch at The Waterside Inn the next day.

Day Three – Bray
After lunch at The Waterside Inn, I decide it’s not worth the money to take a cab back to Maidenhead, and then take a cab back here again for dinner, and then a cab back again. There also isn’t enough time to travel to and do a bit of sightseeing in Windsor, which is about 15 minutes away by taxi. So we make the very unwise choice of staying in Bray till it’s time for dinner at The Hinds Head at 7pm.


Bray is a one-street village. No kampung-style cottages lah, but their High Street (usually the main street in any town), pictured above, stretches for just about 250 metres. There are nice homes and cottages just beyond this street, and we go looking for the church that looks like a part of a castle from a distance.


St Michael’s church was built in 1293. Like most super-old village churches, its grounds are dotted with really old gravestones of loved ones past. We try to sneak a peek inside, but come to a locked door, from which I manage peer into its interior.


Apparently this church has a number of ancient sculptures, including a Sheela na Gig. [A Sheela-what?!! Read about this very interesting artefact here]

The Jesus Hospital is an almshouse, founded in 1609 by William Goddard (whose full-sized effigy stands over the entrance) to house 34 of the aged poor of Bray and 6 of the ‘Worshipful Company of Fishmongers’ to which he belonged. [Ref: Wikipedia]

We search for Heston Blumenthal’s lab/kitchen, like two clueless souls on a ‘Da Vinci Code’ trail. After walking up and down the High Street till the people at TFD think we’re stalkers, we’re so bored and finally sit on a bench at an open field nearby, waiting for time to pass.

The next day, Sue tells us that HB’s kitchen/lab is actually at the carpark just across from his restaurant because the locals won’t allow him to extend the kitchen at his restaurant!

We suspect Bray may also be home to some hobbits.

Bored and as dull as beer-without-hops, we go to The Hinds Head an-hour-and-a-half before our dinner booking, and Ben enjoys a nice pint of Fosters in the pub. We hope to see HB popping in for a pint so that Ben can pick his brain, but remember that the waitress told us the night before that he’s travelling for some new stint.

Dinner is worth the wait! Ben describes it in his blog post here.
To view all the photos taken in Maidenhead and Bray, click this.

Day Four – Maidenhead-London-Dubai
Our last day here. When checking out, Sue and Graham chat with us for a while. It’s funny how Sue fondly says “Heston’s just a pussycat”. She was comparing him to Ramsay of course, telling us about how there was a chef who used to work at Ramsay’s, who then came to work at TFD, and he’s the only chef who’s ever quit The Fat Duck, probably cos he’s just too used to being screamed at at his former kitchen.

There’s a bus stop conveniently located at the doorstep of the guest house, from which we take a bus to Heathrow. We go to the airport first so that I can do the online check-in and we also leave our bags at Left Luggage, this time for £6.50 per piece! Our flight is only later in the evening, so we have the whole afternoon to walk about London.


We head straight for Portobello Road Market because there’s a special bookstore here called Books For Cooks. It’s a Saturday, and the area is crowded with hundreds of stalls, selling everything, from souvenirs to army paraphernalia, fresh fruit & veggies to vintage toys.

Unfortunately, we didn’t know that the bookstore closes in August. I'm more disappointed than Ben is, probably cos I felt this was the objective of visiting the market in the first place, whereas he was enjoying the atmosphere of this bustling place.


Dejected, we take the train from Notting Hill Gate to High Street Kensington, hoping that the WH Smith store here might carry a wide range of food-related books. They don't, but we pop by the park at Kensington Palace just so Ben can have a look-see. We pass Stick n Bowl restaurant, and I tell Ben about remembering how some SQ crew just can’t let a day pass without eating Chinese food, no matter where in the world they are, no matter how lousy the food is.

We hope to get some really good fish n chips before leaving London. With the flu getting the better of me by this day, it seems luck really isn’t on our side today, until we find an Italian restaurant that has a Fish n Chips Special displayed outside.

Seated next to an old lady, we place our orders for F&C. The old lady turns to me, points at Ben’s t-shirt, and says, “I believe I have that same exact t-shirt”. (Ben thinks that people must like my round funny-face cos strangers always approach me.) I tell her that it just might be the same cos it's from Topshop. We chat a bit more, and I ask her where we can get really good F&C here. She says we’re at the right place, and I suspect she’s just being a nice, old lady.

She’s right though! The fish n chips here is great. Really light n crisp batter, tender fish. As she gets up to leave, the little old lady bids us goodbye, wishes us a safe journey and says, “God bless you”. So sweet.

View all the photos taken in London here.

When we’re at the airport waiting for our flight back to Dubai, I get a bag-full of meds for my flu from Boots, and finally get my hands on a copy of Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.


Overall, our holiday was superb! We were blessed with good weather – cold the first two days, warm and muggy the next two, but at least no rain! The full effects of the flu only hit me the last day, so at least I could taste all the amazing food we had.

Apart from a closed bookstore and ‘overly-strategic’ rooms, everything went great and as planned. With the magical dining experiences and enchanted places we visited, I can gladly say, mischief managed! :o)

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